VOL.77/2024.12

 

[A Trip to Literary Museums ⑥]

The Hometown Scenery That Became
the Literary Roots of a Modern Boy

Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwondo: Gasan (可山) Lee Hyo-Seok Memorial Hall

 

2024.10.07

 

Fall in Pyeongchang begins with the white buckwheat blossoms. The buckwheat fields that cover the vast expanse of Bongpyeong-eup in white create a dreamlike beauty in combination with the blue sky. In his novel When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom, writer Lee Hyo-Seok described this view as “I could hardly breathe in the soft moonlight as if it were sprinkled with salt.” Pyeongchang hosts the “Hyoseok Culture Festival” to spotlight the literary world of Gasan (Lee’s pen name) Lee Hyo-Seok, including When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom in September, when you can stroll through a field of buckwheat flowers as if you were walking into a scene from the novel. It’s a great example of how a writer’s masterpiece can have a profound impact on local culture.

 

 

The writer’s life as both a “modern boy” and a local writer: Lee Hyo-Seok Memorial Hall

 

Lee Hyo-Seok, author of When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom, one of the greatest works of short Korean literature, is considered to be one of the writers who wrote the most authentically Korean fiction during the Japanese occupation. Though he passed away at the age of 35, he left behind a number of short stories, including his debut novel, The City and the Ghost, as well as Orion and Crabapple, The Pig, and The Rooster. Also, although Lee Hyo-Seok was born in his hometown of Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwondo Province, and lived there for only a short time until he went to elementary school, we can see from his works that his hometown influenced him in many ways. Currently, in Lee Hyo-Seok’s hometown of Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do Province, there are several literary sites where you can appreciate and experience Lee Hyo-Seok’s literature, including his birthplace, Pyeongyang Purunjip (meaning “green house”), a restoration of his house in Pyeongyang, and a literary museum.
As the Lee Hyo-Seok Memorial Hall is arranged in a very extensive space, the entire small town seems like the Hyoseok Culture Belt. In addition to the Hall, where visitors can enjoy an in-depth look into the world of Lee Hyo-Seok’s works, there is Moonlight Hill, where visitors can stroll through a large buckwheat field and enjoy the scenery. There are also Lee’s birthplace and the Modern Literature Experience Pavilion, organized in connection with the activities of Lee Hyo-Seok and Pyeongyang Purunjip, which serves as a memorial space. Since there are places to explore the full scope of Lee’s works and life, it’s not only a literary museum, but a “Lee Hyo-Seok Culture and Arts Village.”

 

 

We began our journey at the Memorial Hall with a look into the life of Lee Hyo-Seok, who poured out his passion for literature. With his sophisticated use of language, rich vocabulary, and poetic tone, Lee Hyo-Seok is said to have elevated the artistic quality of his novels with his poetic sentiments. His life as a literary figure is reflected in the Hall, allowing visitors to feel as if they are walking through the writer’s life. Afterwards, we continued on to Pyeongyang Purunjip, a space that gives some idea of why Lee Hyo-Seok was called a “modern boy.” He was known for frequently stopping by Gyeongseong (鏡城), North Hamgyong Province, now in North Korea, to enjoy a cup of mocha coffee. Longing for Europe but unable to afford it, Lee Hyo-Seok often traveled to Harbin, the “Paris of the East,” and enjoyed Western culture so much that he would rush to see an American jazz singer perform at the nearby port of Cheongjin. The restored Pyeongyang Purunjip bears a European flavor that hints at Lee Hyo-Seok’s reputation as a “modern boy.” After visiting Pyeongyang Purunjip and the straw-thatched birthplace, as well as the Modern Literature Experience Pavilion, you will feel as if you have been in the life of Lee Hyo-Seok.

 

 

The final highlight is, of course, strolling through the vast buckwheat fields, which are the very essence of When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom. The delicate flowers look as if they have been sprinkled with salt, as Lee Hyo-Seok describes it, or as if they have been gently dusted with white snow - the fields seem to stretch on forever. The time spent walking, immersed in the landscape, brings to mind the protagonist of When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom, Heo Saeng-Won, who lived a life of natural beauty, strong vitality, and tumultuous events. Perhaps Heo Saeng-Won was too consumed with the hardships of his daily life to fully appreciate the beauty of the buckwheat flowers, which bloomed in all their white glory even at night. However, the sight of such a vast field of white buckwheat flowers must have been enough to shake the writer’s heart. These impressive buckwheat fields were common in Lee Hyo-Seok’s hometown, and they must have been a source of literary inspiration for him. Now, many years later, the buckwheat fields have become a symbol of the writer and a source of cultural and tourist content, reminding us of the writer and his works.

 

 

Through the Fir Forest and into a Thousand-Year-Old Temple: Woljeongsa Temple

 

Bidding farewell to Bongpyeong-eup, where we could hear the chorus of literature and nature, we moved on to another serene view. There is an old temple at Pyeongchang-gun that was built during the reign of Queen Seondeok of Silla. It’s the Woljeongsa Temple, located at the foot of Odaesan Mountain, Pyeongchang’s most famous mountain, where the entire mountain is considered a sacred site for Buddhism. The temple houses many cultural heritages, including the national treasure Octagonal Nine-Story Stone Pagoda and treasures such as the Woljeongsa Temple Stone Seated Bodhisattva and Wooden Seated Child Manjusri. Since the temple is quite large, there are so many things to see that you will feel more familiar with Buddhism after taking a walk around the temple grounds and seeing the various Buddhist cultural heritages. The temple is also famous for its temple stay. A temple stay is a great way to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and spend time quietly letting go of yourself in the deep embrace of nature. It is a great program to experience the true essence of Woljeongsa Temple.

 

 

Another must-see at Woljeongsa Temple is the healing walkway that stretches for about 1 kilometer from Iljumun (the first gate at the entrance of the temple) to Geumgang Bridge. The sunlight that peeks through the fir forest, which is home to a whopping 1,700 fir trees, warms the hearts of all who walk the path in peace. Recently, a trekking course called Seonjae Road has been organized, and it’s a great place to leave the burdens of everyday life behind and walk in tranquility. As the trail is quite long, you can take a break under the fir trees along the way to catch your breath, walk barefoot on the ocher ground, and soak your feet in the water that flows down from the mountain. Also, because the forest has been kept in its natural state, the tree that was split by a lightning strike in 2006 is still in place, making it a new attraction. Above all, the trail is a great path to walk while feeling the importance of nature, as you can enjoy the feeling of cleansing your mind and body with phytoncides released from the fir trees.

 

 

Green waves spread out under the clean Gangwon breeze: Daegwallyeong Sky Ranch

 

Its high altitude creates an awe-inspiringly magnificent and natural landscape, with panoramic views of the highlands and cool breezes wafting over Daegwallyeong. Thanks to this geographical feature, Pyeongchang is home to many pastures and ranches. Among them, Daegwallyeong Sky Ranch is an interactive ranch where you can take a tracked horse-drawn carriage ride through the beautiful Alpine-like scenery and explore the trekking trails. If you enjoyed the ride to the top of the mountain, you can also take a leisurely walk down to explore every corner of the ranch. The ranch, which has preserved the clean ecosystem of Daegwallyeong, is home to the only Valais Blacknose Sheep in Korea and more than 400 cows, sheep, goats, horses, cute rabbits, guinea pigs, and other animals, allowing visitors to spend time interacting with the animals.

 

 

On your way down through the clear, green landscape of the ranch, you might spot the filming locations of the movie “Welcome to Dongmakgol” and the music video for Blackpink’s “Lovesick Girls.” When you are done exploring the ranch, it is a great time to treat yourself to a delicious dessert to calm down from the exhilarating experience of being out in nature. There’s a nice cafe at the entrance to the ranch that serves drinks and ice cream made with milk produced on the ranch. This is one of the little pleasures of traveling to the ranch.

 

 

Pyeongchang is a place where you can encounter the power of nature spread across a vast expanse of land and the people who live their daily lives diligently within it. Lee Hyo-Seok, who lived in an earlier era, must have had a special fondness for such landscapes. All of them were captured in Lee Hyo-Seok’s novels in his own language, and they still fill the literary sensibilities of many people and are leading the rejuvenation of the region. We can realize that the power of fiction is as strong as the power of nature here in Pyeongchang.

 

 

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Written by Kim Young-Ihm