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Special Project
[New Ways of Walking Through Cities ⑧] A City on the Mirror-Like Surface of Water: Stockholm
2025.08.04
The nickname “Venice of Scandinavia” is not quite accurate for Stockholm. While Stockholm and Venice share a common ground in that they are both comprised of several islands and countless bridges connecting them, Stockholm is much smaller and quieter than Venice. People in Stockholm are adept at having conversations without much gesturing, while naturally maintaining an appropriate distance between themselves. However, in the summer, especially in August, the city transforms into a completely different place. The sun shines on the city well past nine in the evening, and people smile and chat with each other at a slightly closer distance than usual. It might be in an outdoor caf?, or on a boat rocking gently, or on the steps of Stockholm City Hall, where the Nobel Prize ceremony takes place. That’s how Stockholm in August shines.
A city of memories, distant but close
Sweden: Walking in the Country of Pippi and Nils
Aside from global furniture brand IKEA, Korea has had a surprisingly long relationship with Sweden - especially if you grew up in Korea in the 1980s and 1990s; if you were in Korea then, you may have watched the Korean versions of Pippi Longstocking and The Wonderful Adventures of Nils on the national television network, KBS. The book, Sweden: Walking in the Country of Pippi and Nils (Papier), tells the story of a Korean immigrant family who follows Nils on his journey to learn more about Sweden. Interestingly, Stockholm isn’t mentioned until much later in the book. This is because most of Nils’s adventures took place in the south of Sweden. It is also because the author’s family lives in Malm?, a five-hour high-speed train ride from Stockholm.
“It was a shame that my attitude of ‘I might just drop by the Vasa Museum, as it feels bad to just leave after coming all the way here for things I had to do.’ was so insensitive. I had completely disrespected the host’s sincerity, as I had only gone to the feast of delicious dishes just to satisfy my hunger. As I left the Vasa Museum with a huge sense of disappointment that I couldn’t taste everything on the table, I rearranged the order of my purpose for coming to Stockholm. It became, ‘I came to Stockholm to see the Vasa Museum, but it would be nice if I could also do the things I had to do on the way.’ The Vasa Museum alone was worth the trip to Stockholm.” - from Sweden: Walking in the Country of Pippi and Nils
The Wonderful Adventures of Nils was a geography textbook(地理讀本) for adolescents written by author Selma Lagerl?f, commissioned by the National Teachers Association. The author, who didn’t learn about it until she arrived in Sweden, follows Nils’s journey as if she were studying it. In Stockholm, she visits the Vasa Museum, which exhibits the warship Vasa, which was sunk over 300 years ago. At first, it was just a drop-by on the itinerary. She didn’t find the long-sunken giant ship very interesting. However, the author became deeply impressed by the tragic history of the ship, which sank shortly after the launching ceremony, resulting in more than 30 casualties. She regretted her lightheartedness when she realized that this impression was made possible by the determination of the people who came together to restore the sunken ship to its original state. Perhaps the regret came from the realization that Swedes once shared a history of being the descendants of the Vikings, the rulers of all the seas, and the vanquishers(?者) of the Baltic Sea. Like almost all capitals, Stockholm has been home to some of Sweden’s most glorious moments.
The Space of Time That Flows as If Stopped
Northern European Humanities
For travelers, Stockholm is a very friendly city. It’s easier to communicate with people in Stockholm than those in other European countries, because most of them speak English fluently. The road leading to Gamla Stan, often chosen as “the most Stockholm-like” area, is also straightforward and pleasant. You simply have to exit Stockholm Central Station onto Vasagatan, cross the Vasabron bridge, and continue straight into Gamla Stan. At 15 minutes on a moderate walk, or 10 minutes at a brisk pace, Gamla Stan may seem like a typical tourist destination, but it’s a space that’s so cherished by Stockholmers. This was the case for the author of Northern European Humanities (Miraebook), who lived in Stockholm for four years before returning to Korea to work for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade and as a global marketing and strategic planning specialist for a large corporation.
Everybody was commenting on how fantastic the Nordic summer was, with cool summer breezes and non-sticky sunshine. Then, one of my friends said that an acquaintance was coming to Stockholm in a few days and asked what places they should visit. There was a pause, as if everyone was thinking. “Stockholm starts with Gamla Stan and ends with Gamla Stan.” - from Northern European Humanities
Gamla Stan is the Swedish word for “old town.” It is the center of Stockholm, which already began to take shape as a city in 1252. As the author describes it, “The moment you enter, you forget about the present you are living in and are taken back to the past.” This is because you can easily recognize that, despite the glowing signs and colorful displays, the streets and buildings have remained largely unchanged for a very long time. That’s what makes Gamla Stan such a delightful mix of romance and fantasy. There is a constant stream of people who are excited to see what they will find when they turn the corner of any old alley. However, not all travelers are filled with such excitement. Gamla Stan also has a large number of Stockholmers who head out into the city to enjoy Fika, a Swedish coffee break where they relax with coffee and snacks. They join in the excitement as if they were tourists themselves. An island that is both isolated and inclusive - and all the more fun for it - is right in the middle of Stockholm.
Finding the roots of Scandinavian design
A Journey to Nordic Art Museums
The design trends in Korea have evolved with the rise in consumption levels. People have started to seek elegance in simplicity rather than extravagance. Scandinavian design, which gained popularity in the 2000s, is a prime example.
“Pontus Hult?n is a Swedish-born, internationally recognized museum professional. Appointed head of Moderna Museet (contemporary art museum) in 1960, he organized a number of experimental and significant exhibitions during his tenure of more than a decade, establishing Moderna Museet as a world-class museum attracting international attention. In recognition of his contributions, he was appointed the first president of the Centre Pompidou in Paris, where he continued to work on an international scale. It is surprising that the first director of the Mus?e National d’Art Moderne in France, a country of artistic power, was a Swede rather than a Frenchman.” - from A Journey to Nordic Art Museums
How can the French, a country that prides itself on its art, invite a Swede as the director of a new museum of contemporary art? The author explains that Pontus Hult?n’s donation of his collection to the museum, with the request that the pieces be displayed in a warehouse-like space so that they can be viewed and appreciated at ease by visitors, clearly indicates the roots of Scandinavian design. The author also recommends seeing the process of art being transformed into design in person. This is because ArkDes, the national museum of architecture and design, located under the roof of the Moderna Museet, welcomes visitors. The cafe and restaurant here are as much a showcase for all things Scandinavian design as the museum itself. Additionally, outside the museum, you can witness the Nordic innovation that has transformed an abandoned naval base into outdoor installations by world-renowned artists, including Picasso and Calder. It is a tranquil, yet ever-changing, snapshot of Sweden.
The image of the Nordics, especially Sweden and Stockholm, as we know it, is fragmented. The Stockholm City Hall, where the Nobel Prize ceremony and dinner are held, is probably the most vivid historical place. However, over the past decade or so, the psychological distance has been gradually decreasing, as we can easily find movies and dramas based on Norse mythology through various media. If you are a parent, you may have read about the Swedish childcare system a little earlier. Sweden has been recognized as a global model for protecting mothers throughout pregnancy and childbirth, encouraging fathers to be more involved in childcare, and fostering an environment where children are prioritized in society. Sweden has been struggling with a declining population for some time and has experimented with various solutions.
Written by Jung Hwan-Jung
Jung Hwan-Jung #Stockholm#Sweden#Nobel Prize |

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