VOL.70/2024.05

 

[A Trip to Literary Museums ①]

The Footprints of Two Writers
Who Sang of Hope in Times of Despair

Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do: Kwon Jeong-Saeng Fairy Tale Museum
and Yi Yuk-Sa Literary Museum

 

2024.05.07

 

Literary museums are not just places to display writers’ books and materials, but also places that create new content based on those materials and spread writers’ spirits to future generations. As they preserve the past yet always have new stories to tell, it is always a thrill when going to a new literary museum, curious to see what stories they will tell. This is why many book lovers and even general travelers search for literary museums in their travels and take the time to visit them.
Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do, the destination of this month’s “Book Trip,” is a city of traditional Korean culture and is often referred to as the “spiritual capital of Korea.” Living up to its name, Andong is famous for being home to prominent scholars such as Lee Hwang and Ryu Seong-Ryong during the Joseon Dynasty as well as independence activists such as Yi Yuk-Sa and Lee Sang-Ryong during the Japanese occupation. The Taekbaek Mountains and the Nakdonggang River together present beautiful natural scenery, and the region is also a popular destination for many travelers as it holds various tangible and intangible cultural heritages. We visited two literary museums in Andong, which are not to be missed on any trip. Let’s take a look at the Kwon Jeong-Saeng Fairy Tale Museum and Yi Yuk-Sa Literary Museum, as well as the many other things to see and experience in Andong.

 

Seeds of hope for all the children in the world

 

 

The first place we visited was the Kwon Jeong-Saeng Fairy Tale Museum, located 30 minutes by car from Andong Station. Born during the Japanese occupation, Kwon Jeong-Saeng lived through the pain of fallen nationhood and the Korean War after liberation, vividly witnessing the destruction of humanity in these violent times. However, just as dandelions bloom even on hard concrete, he wrote children’s books such as Doggy Poo (Gilbut Kids), Sister Mong-Sil (Changbi), and The Little Chick Bbedaegi (Changbi) to spread hope and peace to children in the midst of despair. The Kwon Jeong-Saeng Fairy Tale Museum was established to share his literary spirit and the fragrance of life more closely with growing children.

 

 

The Kwon Jeong-Saeng Fairy Tale Museum is a renovation of an abandoned school in the neighborhood where he lived, and uses the entire school building. The museum in spring, when cherry blossoms are in full bloom, made us feel like we were in a land of fairy tales. There was a playground for children to play on, and cute fairy tale characters welcomed us. Inside the museum, Kwon Jeong-Saeng’s belongings, such as his will, desk, and diaries, were displayed alongside his major works. In addition, his life was organized into an easy-to-follow chronology, and you can also watch a video that explains his life and literary world.

 

 

Kwon Jeong-Saeng struggled with illness for so long in his life that he had to spend two days in bed for every day he wrote. Nevertheless, his works are filled with messages of peace and hope, and his life was one of warmth and compassion. Until the moment he rested in peace, Kwon cared for marginalized, lonely, and suffering children. His words, “I will be poor even if I were reborn a hundred times, and will always be with poor, lonely, and sick children,” are what we should remember and pay attention to on May 5 - Children’s Day in Korea.

 

The world of poetry infused with national spirit

 

 

Another literary museum in Andong, the Yi Yuk-Sa Literary Museum, is dedicated to Yi Yuk-Sa, an independence activist and poet who fought against Japanese occupation with his literary works. Known as “Yi Yuk-Sa,” his real name was actually Lee Won-Rok, but he chose the name after the number 264 (pronounced as yi, yuk, and sa, respectively) that he received in prison after his independence movement. The Yi Yuk-Sa Literary Museum features various exhibits related to his independence movement and literary activities with the aim of passing on his national and literary spirit. The museum is composed of Spirit Hall (exhibition hall), Residence Hall (training institute), and Yookwoodang (birthplace of Yi Yuk-Sa), and the exhibition hall is organized on two floors.
The exhibition hall on the first floor showcases his unflinching fight against the Japanese occupation, regardless of the hard times in prison. Here, along with models of the independence movements he participated in, you will find literary works, photographs, medals, and memorial poems.
When you read his representative poems such as Green Grapes, The Vertex, and The Wild Plain, you will be able to feel his longing for independence which he always called for during his lifetime as well as his yearning for hope. On the second floor, you can follow in his footsteps along the chronology of his life, which describes how he came to be named “Yi Yuk-Sa.” In a separate room, you can watch videos to further understand his life and spirit. The literary cafe “Yellow Butterfly,” located at the end of the exhibition hall on the second floor, is a place where you can relax with a book or a cup of coffee.

 

 

We left the exhibition hall and headed to Yookwoodang, the birthplace of martyr Yi Yuk-Sa. The name “Yookwoodang” is in honor of the brotherhood of Yi Yuk-Sa’s 6 brothers. Although the original structure is no longer available, they have recreated the house as best they can. The passionate life of Yi Yuk-Sa, an independence fighter and resistance poet, as seen through the Yi Yuk-Sa Literary Museum, reminds future generations of the importance of unwavering free will and peace. He once wrote, “After a thousand years, there will be a superhuman riding a white horse, and he will sing throatily in this wilderness.” Although he died before he could see the liberation of his country, his works and life continue to ignite hope in the hearts of all of us living today.

 

 

Various popular spots in Andong, perfect places to go in spring

 

Located near the Yi Yuk-Sa Literary Museum, “Dosan Seowon” is another must-visit place on any trip to Andong. Preserving traditional Korean academic values and architectural culture, Dosan Seowon was designated as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites - “Seowon, Korean Neo-Confucian Academies” - in July 2019 for its excellence and universal value as a World Heritage Site. Seowon was an educational institution established during the Joseon Dynasty and a place of worship for “Sunghyun,” the Confucian masters. Among them, Dosan Seowon was built to honor the scholarship and virtues of Toegye Lee Hwang, a leading Joseon scholar. It consists of various annex buildings centered around the Dosan Seodang, the main educational building, and the Okjingak, where Toegye Lee Hwang’s artifacts are displayed. It is an excellent place to take a stroll while enjoying the beautiful springtime scenery of Dosan Seowon and feeling the spirit of Toegye Lee Hwang.

 

 

Another representative Seowon in Andong - Byeongsan Seowon - is dedicated to honoring Seoae Ryu Seong-Ryong, a scholar, physician, and writer during the Joseon Dynasty. Byeongsan Seowon is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, “Seowon, Korean Neo-Confucian Academies,” and neighboring Hahoe Village has also been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its ability to preserve Korean traditions intact over the years. Hahoe Village is home to 127 houses that preserve the traditional lifestyle and classical architecture, and are still inhabited today. The village offers a variety of traditional experience programs, and the Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori Permanent Performance is held 6 days a week, except Mondays, at 2pm. If you are planning a trip to Andong, we recommend spending a day touring both Byeongsan Seowon and Hahoe Village to get a full experience of traditional Korean culture.

 

 

On our way back to Andong Station after our short trip, we headed for another famous spot near the station as we were sad to leave. It’s Wolyeong Bridge, a bridge that holds the beautiful and sublime love story of a couple who lived during the Joseon Dynasty. Located about 20 minutes by car from Andong Station, the bridge was crowded with people enjoying spring. The spectacular blooming cherry blossoms and the smiles of travelers watching them were everywhere. While Wolyeong Bridge is a great place to visit in spring, it is also a great place for a romantic date, as it boasts stunning night views. Wrapping up our trip with Wolyeong Bridge, we got to thinking that Andong is a city that best suits spring more than any other destination. This is because the Kwon Jeong-Saeng Fairy Tale Museum and Yi Yuk-Sa Literary Museum, dedicated to two writers who never gave up hope in the face of despair, and Andong’s many other tourist spots that still preserve Korean traditions, resemble the warm spring that always comes after a cold winter, and the lush spring that brings new life every year.

 

 

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Written by Choi Ha-Yeong